This brilliant plan for a winter excursion to Italy began, like most brilliant plans, after a rather drunken conversation. Too many free beers at an exhibition in the bleak Berlin winter led me to inquire about the temperature in Milan in January. “January in Milano is gonna be like June in Barbados”, That’s all the encouragement it took for me to book a flight to Milano.

Come to think of it, I have no idea how Barbados is in June…

There’s a lot to be said about skateboarding - that’s probably why you bought a copy of Fotta. That being said, there are plenty more interesting articles about skateboarding within this magazine, so allow me to waffle on in some tangential quest to discover some of the world’s best-kept secrets here in Italy. Let's leave skateboarding to the professionals, shall we?

If Milano is the cool kid drinking prosecco at a fashion show, Torino is the weird metalhead brother smoking bongs in the basement.

With a friendship built on a mutual love for country music and wine, it was only a matter of time before Fede and I spent quality time together, outside of our yearly pilgrimage to Vladimir Film Festival in Croatia. Having only paid fleeting visits to Milano in previous years whilst waiting for connecting trains, this would be my first time properly being an Englishman in Milano. With a knackered ankle and no real lust to pop onto Centrale’s marble, I roamed the backstreets, fueled by pocket coffee and Google Translate. Funnily enough, it took us just one day of being in Milano before we left, travelling across to Torino to cast some spells and play with a very friendly sheep.

If Milano is the cool kid drinking prosecco at a fashion show, Torino is the weird metalhead brother smoking bongs in the basement.

Cut in two by the 45th parallel, Torino is the magic capital of the world. The dramatic chiaroscuro of the city’s history and its ties globally to a somewhat secretive magical presence give Torino and its residents a mystical and sinister essence. Fun fact - The world’s biggest magic trick was performed in Torino by 12,514 magicians on New Year's Eve 2018. I never thought I’d be quoting the Guinness World Records in a skateboarding article, but here you go: “The magic trick involved all spectators holding four cards. They rip them in two, shuffle them, and put a single piece in their pockets. They then shuffle them again, decide to keep some of them, or throw some away. At the end of the trick, they will 'magically' remain with one single piece of card, and it will match exactly the one in their pocket.”- Cool huh?

Another fun, non-magic fact is that Torino formerly held the title of the tallest brick building in Europe, until the top fell off. It seems like a rather easy fix to regain the title, but I feel they prefer to tell the story and celebrate or possibly dwell on the past. It’s a good story to tell regardless. Nestled in the hills above Torino’s bustling flea markets, magical occult and former record-holding buildings, lies Cinghial Bowl, the brainchild of Fotta’s very own Alberto Della-Beffa. This place is the teenage wet dream for many skateboarders but realised in a much more poetic and practical form than that of some janky plywood in a garden shed.

After a night avoiding a squat party and settling for a fire, a few bottles of wine and some fine donkey salami, first light creeps across the distant Alps and a frosty wake-up greets us as a pot of tea brews on the stove. Plans for the flea market are formed with eager anticipation. An unintentional ramshackle band is formed, by seeking organs, oscilloscopes and melodicas amongst the others that the market offered. The journey back to Alberto’s bowl was utter pandemonium and it fired us up perfectly for the following bowl session. Coincidentally, firing it up was exactly what we could’ve used the next morning, as the bowl was frozen solid with early frost.

I will add that the importance of a good pair of wellies/rubber boots goes above and beyond that of a good pair of skate shoes. Practical, long-lasting, and damn good-looking. Especially when livestock is involved. Thanks for the hospitality Sally & Alberto.

The first observations of Milano are that the sidewalks melt in the summer. Cigarettes fill indentations created by moped stands, texturing the asphalt like a crudely woven tapestry of bitumen, tar and occasionally, piss. I found this out the hard way on at least one occasion skating through the city. Everyone smokes here. Even those who don't, do. Effective January 1st, 2025, Milano has banned the smoking of cigarettes in public places. This, however, is easier said than done, with every man and his dog continuing to light up post-pasta or mid-afternoon stroll.

The first thing noticed is the ‘skateability’ of Milano’s aforementioned sidewalks. Albeit textured, pushing around the city is not the back-breaking effort it is in Berlin. Concentric circles separated by truly chaotic roads with surfaces varying between concrete and Napoleonic cobblestone, make for an attentive, yet satisfying cruise downtown. A fine example of these Napoleonic stones is Porta Ticinese, which I spent a while familiarising myself with during one of the last days of this trip.

It seems somewhat inevitable to claim a trick you favour on skate trips. Be it one you’re comfortable with, or one you recently learnt - There is comfort in having a plan of action. These tricks are never as easy as they’re initially intended to be. Be it a post-NYE firework-ridden floor in my case, or rapidly losing daylight, the excuses are usually plentiful- and I was fucking full of them.

Duomo Di Milano, or more specifically Piazza Del Duomo is a magnificent game of pigeon shit bingo. A risky pastime, if like me, you choose to wear all white on this trip. Duomo takes you in, with an almost magnetic geographical location. They say all roads lead to Rome, but I couldn’t escape this Cathedral. Every time I managed to get lost, I found myself gazing once more upon one of its 135 intricate spires, normally holding a massive sandwich. The Goths did things properly back then…

Without sounding too much like a slightly inebriated ‘Lonely Planet’ guide, the backstreets do entice you with sweet-smelling panzerotti and such, but as I found out the true Italian food* is prepared at home. Geppo- former owner of Bastard Store Milano and now Fotta bossman (title in progress) kindly fed us on several nights of this trip whilst reminiscing stories of the Bastard Bowl in front of the fire.

So lesson learnt. Milano is cold as fuck in January, but the warmth of the locals makes up for it no end. Old stone makes for good skateboarding. Mattoni DIY is a fine example of that. RHOllywood is where the real stars are. Italian food is a myth - or at least it was for the first 3 days of this trip. And finally- A trip's ‘last day’ can change several times. Blame it on peer pressure or a weak will for a good time, I’m not sure. All I do know is that after 3 postponed flights and a few more photos, I returned to Berlin with a sore body and a full heart.

The skate trip ethos always stays the same, regardless of where you go. A rough plan, a good crew and a few good bottles of wine (optional). Italy offers a lot of good times, just remember to check the weather before you head somewhere. January is the time of year for going to hot places and escaping winter blues, not de-icing bowls in rubber boots.

*Here they just call it food.